A week in the capital of the ancient Incan empire has officially renewed our love for South America.

Before we arrived in Cusco, we were feeling a little tired of travelling; bumpy, loud buses; lost-in-translation conversations and meals that constantly made us sick were all getting us down. But then we stumbled upon what seemed like paradise for two wary, sick travellers: a place home to quiet cobblestone streets, 500-year old Spanish churches and Incan stonework so perfect you can’t even fit a credit card between the blocks. What’s more, delicious, high quality restaurants abound in Cusco; good service and hearty, yummy food a welcome characteristic of every meal here. Undulating mountains surround the entire valley, and everywhere you look there are the rainbow colours of the Incan independence flag blowing in the breeze. It’s a refreshing change to the difficulties we experienced in Bolivia – and it’s made us love travelling in this continent once more.

Through a few lucky connections we scored two nights in one of the plushest hotels in town. The Fallen Angel was a beautifully funky mix of quirky, arty decor and high quality luxury. Sleeping on the giant King-size bed with its goose down duvet was total bliss, as was watching soccer world cup games from a giant bubble bath. On our first night we had our kiwi friends over for a dinner party; cooking macaroni cheese and apple and peach crumble in the little kitchen with good friends made me feel like we were back at home in NZ. We literally didn’t leave our blissful loft-style room for the entire two days we stayed there. When we finally emerged, blinking in the soft Peruvian sunlight, we felt reinvigorated and ready to embrace the demands of South American travel once more.

Our small pangs of homesickness disappeared compltetely when we met Mum at the Cusco airport a few days ago. Armed with bear hugs and bags of New Zealand comfort food, catching up with her has been like a breath of (New Zealand) fresh air. We’ve spent the last 3 nights with her in Ollantaytambo – known as the living Inca City – in the Sacred Valley, an hour from Cusco.  Ollantaytambo was the last Incan stronghold against the Spanish, and the tiny, village-like town has hardly changed in the last 600 years. Set amongst sheer, towering mountains covered in Incan terraces and ruins, the entire town is built on ancient foundation rocks with aqua ducts criss-crossing its skinny lanes. The result was charming: we could imagine exactly what the place would have been like when Incans and sun gods ruled the skies. Here, we spent a beautifully relaxing few days hiking to the ruins, gorging ourselves on fresh mangoes and bonding with the local stray dog population. Bliss.

On Monday we leave to do the Inca Trail with Mum. This demanding 4-day journey winds through the most beautiful parts of the Peruvian Andes before ending at Macchu Picchu at sunrise. No doubt it’s going to be a bit of a challenge in this thin, high-altitude air; but hiking up to one of the wonders of the world with my Mum & my partner is going to be pretty bloody magical. Can’t wait!